Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
